Patpong was central to one of the largest undercover operations in Southeast Asia and has been home to some of Bangkok's most notorious residents. Many visitors to the city are unaware of its history, which we are about to explore in today's episode.
Timeline of Patpong
1881 - The Patpong Dynasty Begins
Tun Phu, the founder of the Patpong dynasty, is born in Hainan, China. His family eventually moves to Siam (Thailand).
1900 - A New Beginning
Tun Phu changes his name to Poon Pat and marries a Thai woman in Bangkok, laying the foundations for what would become a significant family legacy.
1913 - A Business Empire
Poon Pat co-founds Siam Cement Company, establishing himself as a prominent businessman.
1916 - Birth of Udom Patpongpanich
The fourth child of Poon Pat, Udom, is born. He would later play a crucial role in transforming Patpong into a central business district.
1930 - Royal Recognition
King Prajadhipok bestows an honorary title to Poon Pat, who becomes Luang Patpongpanich, further cementing the family's status.
1936-1938 - Udom's Education
Udom attends the London School of Economics, and later the University of Minnesota from 1940-1945, gaining valuable education and connections.
1945 - The OSS Connection
Udom Patpongpanich receives training by the OSS, the precursor to the CIA, at Fort Benning in Georgia and later in Sri Lanka by Jim Thompson before being deployed to Thailand.
1946 - The Banana Plantation
The Patpongpanich family buys a banana plantation on Silom Rd with a teak villa on the edge of Bangkok for $300. This purchase marks the beginning of Patpong's transformation.
1950 - A Vision Realized
Luang Patpongpanich passes away, and Udom takes over the family business. He starts constructing shophouses and office buildings in the area, laying the groundwork for Patpong's future as a bustling district. Udom persuades major foreign companies to move into the Patpong area, including Caltex, Shell, and Air France. This period also sees the construction of the Plaza Hotel, Bangkokâs first hotel with hot water, air conditioning, and international telephone lines in each of its 16 rooms. Additionally, Jim Thompson founds the Thai Silk Company on the nearby Surawong Road.
1953 - Tony Poe Joins the Scene
Tony Poe (Anthony A. Poshepny), from Long Beach, CA, joins SEA Supply, a CIA front company in Bangkok, supplying arms to Chinese Kuomintang Nationalists in Burma. This marks the beginning of Patpong's deep ties with covert operations.
1954 - Mizu Kitchen Opens
Mizu Kitchen, Patpongâs first restaurant, opens, catering to the growing expat community.
1959 - Tony Poe's Recognition
Tony Poe is awarded the Intelligence Star medal for his training and inspiration of Asian paramilitary troops.
1964 - Patpong's Dual Identity
Patpong becomes the Central Business District of Bangkok by day and an entertainment district by night.
1965 - Vietnam War Influence
The Vietnam War results in the first American soldiers coming to Bangkok for R&R. Air America and other CIA operations set up shop in Patpong.
1966 - Rick Menard Arrives
Rick Menard leaves the US military after fighting in Vietnam and moves to Thailand, where he is introduced to Udom Patpongpanich.
1969 - Key Developments
The Madrid Bar opens, quickly becoming a favorite haunt for CIA agents and Air America pilots. This bar would become a significant spot for covert meetings and social gatherings. Tony Poe is actively training Hmong tribesmen to fight the North Vietnamese and Pathet Lao communists, employing brutal tactics that included cutting off the ears of killed combatants. In the same year, Rick Menard opens the Grand Prix Lounge + Bar, Bangkokâs (and Asiaâs) first go-go bar.
1970 - Opium Smuggling Allegations
Air America (allegedly) helps smuggle opium out of Laos. Disillusioned, Tony Poe is extracted from Laos but stays in Thailand to train more fighters.
1972 - Expansion of Patpong
Patpong spills from Patpong Soi 1 (todayâs market) to Patpong Soi 2. The upstairs bars start offering naughtier shows, including nudity, drawing even more attention to the area. People from around the world, including many celebrities, start coming to Patpong.
1973 - Mississippi Queen Opens
The Mississippi Queen Go-Go Bar opens in Patpong, followed by many others in a short time, solidifying Patpong's reputation as a nightlife hub.
1974 - Tony Poe's Retirement
Tony Poe retires and stays in Thailand with his Hmong wife. His story becomes part of the Colonel Kurtz character in âApocalypse Now.â
1975 - The Serpent
Charles Sobhraj and his fiancĂŠe Marie Leclerc live in Kanit House on Soi Sala Daeng and frequently visit Patpong and its bars, sometimes even with their victims.
1977 - The Deer Hunter
Patpong features prominently in the Oscar-winning movie âThe Deer Hunter.â All street signs are painted over in Vietnamese for the shoot of the famous bar scene in the âMississippi Queen.â
1978 - The Deer Hunter Stars Visit
Robert De Niro and Christopher Walken star in "The Deer Hunter," filmed in Patpongâs legendary Mississippi Queen.
1983 - David Bowie Visits
David Bowie visits Bangkok for a concert and films his âRicochetâ video in Bangkok, including a scene in the Superstar Go-Go bar in Patpong.
1988 - Kickboxer and Legal Troubles
Jean-Claude Van Damme films the introduction to his âKickboxerâ movie on Patpong Road. The same year, the Encounter Bay Ship is seized, and 72 tons of Thai marijuana is confiscated by the U.S. Coast Guard. The owners of Patpongâs Superstar bar are arrested and plead guilty.
1989 - Miss Saigon and the Night Market
The musical âMiss Saigonâ is released, drawing inspiration from the Southeast Asian setting. The same year, the Night Market opens in the evening hours on Patpong Soi 1, adding a new dimension to the area's vibrant nightlife.
2003 - Beautiful Boxer
Parts of the movie âBeautiful Boxer,â about the transgender kickboxing (Muay Thai) champion Parinya Charoenphol, are filmed in Patpong.
2004 - Entertainment Zone Designation
Patpong becomes one of three designated âentertainment zonesâ in Bangkok, allowing its bars to stay open longer.
The Secret War in Laos
The Secret War in Laos (1964-1973) was a covert CIA operation during the Vietnam War aimed at disrupting North Vietnamese supply routes along the Ho Chi Minh Trail and supporting the Royal Lao Government against the communist Pathet Lao. The U.S. feared that if Laos fell to communism, it would trigger a domino effect throughout Southeast Asia. The operation, kept secret to avoid international scrutiny, saw the CIA orchestrating military efforts from Patpong.
Air America's Role in the Secret War in Laos
At the heart of Air America's mission was the support of the Royal Lao Government and the Hmong ethnic group, led by General Vang Pao, in their struggle against the communist Pathet Lao and North Vietnamese forces. Operating under the guise of a civilian airline, Air America conducted a wide range of covert activities, including reconnaissance missions, supply drops, and the transportation of troops and refugees. The airline's fleet of unmarked aircraft became the lifeline for anti-communist forces in the remote and rugged terrain of Laos, often flying in and out of dangerous and poorly equipped airstrips in areas inaccessible by other means.
The impact of Air America's operations in Laos was profound. The airline was instrumental in sustaining the Hmong resistance, delaying the advance of communist forces, and providing critical support to U.S. military operations in the region. However, the human cost of the Secret War was immense. The conflict resulted in the displacement of hundreds of thousands of Lao civilians, widespread destruction, and a lasting legacy of unexploded ordnance that continues to affect the region to this day.
In the years following the end of the Vietnam War, the full extent of Air America's involvement in Laos gradually came to light, leading to a reevaluation of its role in the broader context of U.S. foreign policy during the Cold War. Today, Air America's operations in Laos serve as a sobering reminder of the complexities and moral ambiguities inherent in covert warfare, and the enduring impact of such conflicts on the people and nations involved.
Notable Figures in Patpong's History
Jack Shirley
Jack Shirley was a key CIA operative in Patpong, responsible for training and arming Hmong tribesmen to fight communist forces. After leaving the military, he continued to live in Bangkok, using his intelligence experience for private consultation and assisting in the Thai film industry. Shirley remained in Thailand until his death in 2003.
Tony Poe
Tony Poe, born Anthony Poshepny, was another notorious CIA figure in Patpong, known for his brutal counterinsurgency tactics. He inspired the character Colonel Kurtz in "Apocalypse Now." Poe's methods, including paying Hmong fighters for enemy ears, were controversial but earned him respect among the Hmong forces.
Rick Menard
Rick Menard moved to Bangkok after serving in the Vietnam War and opened the Grand Prix bar, one of Patpong's first establishments featuring female dancers. This concept evolved into the go-go bars Patpong became famous for, including the Mississippi Queen, a location for the film "The Deer Hunter."
Charles Sobhraj
Charles Sobhraj, known as "The Serpent," was a French-Vietnamese fraudster and serial killer who found his way to Patpong in the early 1970s. Taking advantage of Silom's gem trade, Sobhraj defrauded and murdered unsuspecting tourists. His chilling exploits are documented in the Netflix series "The Serpent."
During the mid-1970s, Charles Sobhraj made the Kanit House, a small, nondescript apartment complex in Bangkok, his base of operations. From this location, Sobhraj orchestrated a series of heinous crimes that would eventually earn him international infamy. He was a master manipulator, using his charm, good looks, and multilingual abilities to befriend, deceive, and ultimately murder his victims.
Sobhrajâs modus operandi often involved targeting young Western travelers who were exploring the Hippie Trail through Southeast Asia. He would initially present himself as a helpful and friendly fellow traveler, sometimes posing as a gem dealer or drug dealer to gain their trust. Once he had ensnared his victims, he would drug them, often using a concoction of sleeping pills, and then either rob them or, in many cases, murder them.
The Kanit House in Bangkok was central to his operations. It was here that Sobhraj, along with his accomplices, lured unsuspecting tourists with promises of parties, cheap gems, or drugs. Many of these travelers would never leave the Kanit House alive. Sobhraj's crimes at this location were particularly brutal. He would sometimes strangle or poison his victims, later disposing of their bodies in various locations around the city or even outside Bangkok.
One of the most chilling aspects of Sobhraj's time at the Kanit House was his method of control over his accomplices, many of whom were either lovers or people who had fallen under his spell of manipulation. He used psychological and physical intimidation to keep them loyal and complicit in his crimes. Some of his closest associates, like Marie-AndrĂŠe Leclerc, were both captivated by his charisma and terrified of his unpredictable, violent nature.
Sobhrajâs murders in Bangkok were part of a larger pattern of crimes across Southeast Asia, including Thailand, Nepal, and India. His ability to evade capture was largely due to his meticulous planning and deep understanding of how to manipulate the legal and bureaucratic systems in these countries. Sobhraj was a master of disguises and often used stolen passports to travel freely between countries, further complicating efforts by law enforcement to track him down.
However, Sobhraj's time at the Kanit House eventually contributed to his downfall. As his crimes escalated, so did the attention of international law enforcement. The disappearance of several tourists who had last been seen with Sobhraj led to increased scrutiny and a growing file of evidence against him. His brazen behavior, coupled with his confidence in evading capture, eventually led to mistakes that law enforcement agencies in multiple countries began to piece together.
In 1976, after a series of botched attempts to drug a group of French tourists in India, Sobhraj was finally captured and sentenced to prison. However, his story didnât end there. He would escape from prison several times over the following decades, continuing his criminal activities and living off the infamy that surrounded his name. It wasn't until much later, in 2003, that Sobhraj was finally apprehended in Nepal, where he was convicted of murder and sentenced to life in prison.
Notable Places in Patpong's History
Bar Madrid
Bar Madrid, owned by Daeng and her American husband, became a CIA favorite due to its Western cuisine and secret upstairs room for clandestine meetings. Jenny, Daeng's daughter, continues to serve Bar Madrid's signature dishes and recalls the bar's history as a hub for CIA operatives. It was a preferred meeting spot for key figures like Jack Shirley and Tony Poe.
Bar Madrid is one of those rare gems that still welcomes visitors today, albeit in a new location. Despite the move, the bar's charm and exceptional cuisine remain unchanged. Weâve had the pleasure of visiting Bar Madrid several times, and I can highly recommend their Beef Stroganoff and Larb Pizza. If you plan to visit with a larger group, itâs a good idea to contact Jenny, the owner, in advance. This is a must-visit spot for anyone looking to experience a piece of Patpongâs history while indulging in Jennyâs unique and authentic Western dishes, all while soaking in stories from the past.
Mississippi Queen
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The Mississippi Queen Go-Go Bar opened in Patpong in 1973, solidifying Patpong's reputation as a nightlife hub. It featured prominently in the Oscar-winning movie âThe Deer Hunter.â
Superstar
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Superstar was another iconic go-go bar in Patpong, attracting celebrities like David Bowie and featured in his âRicochetâ video. It was also known for its vibrant nightlife scene until its closure.
The Grand Prix
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Rick Menard's Grand Prix Lounge + Bar, opened in 1969, was Bangkokâs (and Asiaâs) first go-go bar, setting the stage for the nightlife evolution in Patpong.
Pink Panther
Pink Panther, opened in the 1980s, surprises its visitors with a live Muay Thai fight event inside its establishment every day, starting at 10:30 pm. It is one of the few remaining go-go bars from Patpong's earlier days.
Crown Royal đhttps://maps.app.goo.gl/cpqa5dB3gH3YLM637
Crown Royal, owned by Izzy Friedman, offers a genuine throwback atmosphere, providing a nostalgic glimpse into Patpong's past. It is still operating today, maintaining its old-world charm.
The Other Old Office Bar
The Other Old Office Bar has been operating for more than 40 years and offers a genuine throwback atmosphere for everyone who wants to re-live what it was like to come to this area for a cold drink and conspire during a round of pool. The interior is in line with the disappearing charm of what old Patpong used to be like, making way to more modern establishments with flashy lights and live music.
Patpong's Go-Go Bar Evolution
The go-go bar scene in Patpong began with Rick Menard's Grand Prix Lounge + Bar in 1969, which featured female dancers and created a new form of entertainment. This concept was a novelty and quickly gained popularity among both locals and expats.
The first official go-go bar in Patpong, Mississippi Queen, opened in 1973 and set the standard for others to follow. The bar's success spurred the proliferation of go-go bars throughout Patpong, transforming the area into a nightlife hotspot.
The go-go bar concept was soon adopted by nearly all bars in Patpong, creating a vibrant and unique nightlife scene that became one of the area's defining characteristics.
LGBTQ+ Transformation
Patpong today is most well-known for its vibrant LGBTQ community. The area has transformed into a bustling hub for drag shows, gay bars, and other LGBTQ-friendly establishments. This transformation reflects broader changes in Bangkok's social and cultural landscape, with Patpong becoming a safe and welcoming space for the LGBTQ community.
The LGBTQ transformation of Patpong highlights the area's ability to adapt and evolve with changing times. It stands as a testament to the community's resilience and the city's progressive attitude towards inclusivity and diversity.
Patpong's history is a tapestry of espionage, nightlife, and colorful characters. From its roots as a banana plantation to its role in the Secret War in Laos, Patpong has evolved into a bustling area with a unique blend of history and modernity. While many of its secrets remain hidden, exploring Patpong offers a fascinating glimpse into a bygone era of intrigue and adventure.
For those interested in delving deeper into Patpong's history, the Patpong Museum served as an invaluable resource, though it is now permanently closed. Nonetheless, Patpong's legacy continues to intrigue and captivate visitors and history enthusiasts alike.
Have fun exploring Patpong! đđť ...drop me a question below if you have any questions!
